Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay, Kumeu — 98 points
"The vines now at 35 years of age, Mate’s is queen of the Kumeu castle, reigning with seamless grace, quiet power, and intensity, her crown jewels kept close to her chest, for now, to reveal slowly over time. While a complete and beautifully made wine now—all coiled acidity, orchard fruit and lightly salted cashew characters amidst a slippery texture—just think of the rewards for those who wait"
Coddington Chardonnay, Kumeu — 97 points
This multifaceted wine from heavy clay soils is distinctively “of somewhere.” White peach, cashew, citrus blossom, toast, and saline characters are all there, all so well woven as to be hard to extract on their own. It’s elegant and poised, even delicate at first sip, then a quiet power; a fire in the belly. It’s the pithy texture, the seamless acidity and those saltier, nutty notes that are most noticeable. But like other great Chards of the world, this is more a sum of its parts. A wine for the ages—complete now and beautifully age-worthy as well"
Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu — 97 points
"This is a gorgeous wine, with richness and depth right from first sniff. The peach and citrus fruit is fulsome, supple, but it wears a manylayered cloak with roasted salted nuts, white florals, nougat, and river stones sewn into the pockets. The palate is vibrant a tightrope of texture, crystalline acidity and flavor depth. It is everything you hope for in a top Chardonnay, from one of the world’s masters of this variety. "
Rays Road Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay — 95 points
"Kumeu’s sole Hawke’s Bay vineyard project is gaining maturity, and with that comes complexity. Where a few vintages ago this was the most overtly fruity of the range of single vineyard Chards, 2024 is more subdued. The tropical and stone-fruit aromas are still present, but they share the stage with intriguing spice and mineral characters. There’s a unique acid structure to this wine, like a tart apple rather than citrus. It buoys salt-flecked fruit and nut flavors and a creamy texture. A small but excellent vintage—nab a few bottles while you can"
Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu — 94 points
"The peachy stone fruit and nougat characters shine, classic for this famed Auckland Chardonnay house. There some ginger, a lick of salt and toast; it’s soft around the edges while still being bright, even pretty. Lovely shades of both light and dark on the generous palate with softly toasty underbelly and a salted citrus acidity that meanders rather than runs to the finish line. "
Village Chardonnay, Kumeu — 94 points
"There’s an inviting lift of lemony goodness with a lick of nougat, cashew backbone, high toned, with whipped peaks of citrus and cream. A glycerine glide to the palate never feels heavy. In fact, freshness abounds, thanks to a laser beam of acidity that shoots right through the center of the tongue, keeping things tight and focused. Kumeu’s entry level Chard is a wonderful intro to the style, and this particular vintage is a total steal. Stock up, if you can."
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